On the Movie Men and Mavericks there were special circumstances to which all makeups were designed for. One was the Ocean. Salt water and waves. The other was maintaining and creating a tan or tan weathered skin. Treatment products were a must. Each actor had their own products to address the different skin types. Re creating northern california surfers meant actors were surfing, swimming in pools for under water work, diving, hiking up and down cliffs,and exposed to the sunlight on a regular basis.  The following products helped achieve the looks for this wonderful movie.

Steps to tan a medium, medium light, to fair skin tone:

Night before remove makeup and self tan face and body with Roxanne Rizzo Bronze glow and Neutrogena Micro Mist Deep 3( no frost or shine). Roxanne Rizzo products work well because you can self tan the face with a sponge when the actor sits down in your chair five minutes before you apply makeup.

For example: Apply self tan on the face. while setting move down to the hands and arms. Then move back to the face to apply makeup.  This also works for the body when you need a quick tan that wont rub off onto clothing.

Prep/treat skin according to skin type (will go over products later)

1. If covering any skin problems like blemishes, sun damage or scars use skin Illustrate flesh tones rose tones or peach tones very lightly just on top of the areas you want to cover. Keep the product thin and build slowly. Do not cover all the way. The skin Illustrate was our first defense against the ocean.  Also Skin Illustrator in flesh tone Dark was used to deepen the skin tone, contour and give the look of sun-kissed tones under a makeup or used alone.

2. Using a sponge for the face, neck, ears, hands arms and chest apply an even layer of Glazing Spray Tan.  Do not apply directly under eyes.

3. Follow with Mac Face and Body N12. Again cover all expose areas except for under the eyes.

4. Go back and any spot coverage can be done with Derma Blend Cover Creme. Colors Golden Brown, chocolate, and Olive brown.  Temptu SB 007 was used to spot cover cuts and scrapes that a heavy makeup would look to obvious. Apply with a concealer brush let dry down a bit and stipple pat the product to blend. Add more if needed.

5. under the eyes blend to match a concealer that is deep in tone. Like Eve pearls Tan and Dark.

(I used Guerlain #4 on top of the makeup to blend the tones together . Sweep this color also under the eyes for blending. Great for touch ups to maintain the tan)

6. If any sun burn was needed Glazing sprays Sunburn, and glazing gels sunburn were used to redden high points of the face and body.

7. Spray Green Marble SeLer on a sponge and lightly tap on top of makeup (For surfing, swimming etc).  You can also use Blue SeLer for everyday.

(If needed Eve Pearl Dark anti shine was used for touch ups) No powders were ever used.

More product suggestions to come!

 Roxanne Rizzo Bronze Glow

 Neutrogena Micro Mist Deep 3 Sunless Tan

   Skin Illustrator

 Glazing Sprays/Gels

 Mac Face and Body

 Temptu SB 007

 Derma Blend Cover Cremes

 Green Marble

Guerlain #4

Eve Pearl Tan

 Eve Pearl Anti-Shine

For more information and to vist their web sites:

www.skinillustrator.com

www.ppi.cc

www.maccosmetics.com

www.evepearl.com

www.dermablend.com

www.roxannerizzo.com

www.temptupro.com

www.guerlain.com

  Garnier

Nutritioniste Ultra-Lift Anti Wrinkle has rated slightly higher than other wrinkle creams according to consumer reports. Anti-aging creams that follwed were:

Aveena Active NaturalsAgeless Vitality

CVS Pharmacy Firming Anti-Wrinkle

Lancome Paris Renergie Double Performance Treatment Anti-Wrinkle

L’Oreal Paris Revitalift Face&Neck

For my clients texture and aromas is a deciding factor . Heavy floral smells or sticky residues I will not use. So if that means spending more money on treatment products to get what I want? I will.

For more information: www.consumerreports.org

 Devon Keene/Photo

Consumer Reports has a good article in the sept issue about bottled waters. The article is: Bottled doesn’t mean better .  Bottled water doesn’t mean what you are drinking comes from fresh spring mountain water.In fact most of the brands do not disclose where the source of their water comes from or how the water is treated.  Except in California. Does this mean I might stop carrying around a bottle of water all day on set to drink?Have a case of bottled water for actors? Or when a trailer is not set up right bottled water is used to dampen towels to heat up, fill coffee makers, and use for general purposes? Not sure but it wouldn’t hurt to know which companies do disclose information for everyone’s well-being.

For more information: www.consumerreports.org

Danny Wagner is painting an actress for Clone Wars. He is using Reel Creation body art inks. The head piece is a prosthetic. The photo next to Danny shows all the contrasting colors in the sky reflected in water.

www.dannywagner.com

Jamie Chung makeup inspired by a Nars shadow palette /Illustration Devon Keene

Lars Carlsson’s Corpse makeup has the same contrasting colors as Devon Keenes swimming pool photo. Lars has a beautiful translucent look to his makeup applications.

Lars Carlsson: www.makeup-fx.com

Don Jusko: www.realcolorwheel.com

Color in Makeup Design

 Don Jusko/ RCW Color Wheel

Makeup artists create their designs using color  combinations often seen in nature, people or objects around us. It can be very sub conscience. We all have natural instincts to gravitate towards color combinations that bring out emotional responses.  The most effective makeups are done in layers of building color to achieve looks with translucent depth.  There is a fine line between a flat surface of mixed up color and one that provokes the desired reaction.  Below are examples of photos representing color in everyday life? Similar color combinations are used for character makeup applications. You can start to see how color is picked up in beautiful contrasts in both our work and every day occurrences.

       Photography/Illustrations by Devon Keene

A contrasting red against neutrals. Lipsticks also define contrast.

Danny Wagner

Danny: This project was inspired by Rick Baker’s work in the horror classic feature film “The Incredible Melting Man”. Armed with a ton of pictures from magazines, frame grabs, and lobby cards I started to examine the designs and sculpts from the original faces. Using my own life cast worked out great. The size was appropriate for the project. My goal was to take the famous Cinefex picture from issue 14 about Rick Baker and to duplicate the shot. Duplicating a convincing melting man from all sides without being able to see from all angles in the photo is a challenge. Not wanting to buy more clay for this project I used everything including some very old roma plastaline. Heat the clay to make a softer consistency. You will be able to work with the clay easier. Basicly i just started working with what I saw in the pictures.

The clay that I worked with most often for this project was Chavanete. Using Roma as I started to run out of the other. NSP Medium, De-Aired, was also used. De-Solve cleaned and smoothed the sculptures. 100% alcohol also helped to clean and smooth the sculpts. After they were done I molded the masks in Ultracal 30 stone plaster. In regular two piece molds.

When finished the molds went into the oven to heat up, soften the clay for easier removal or pulling the molds apart. Next step was cleaning out the molds, casting with latex ,and polyfoam.

Since Latex has a nice fleshy color to them that became the base color. A mix of naphtha cement paints were used to paint the masks. Seal with Perma-Wet Gloss.

For more information go to Danny’s web site at www.dannywagner.com

Mens grooming is huge in the makeup trailer. In “The Makeup Artist Handbook” we outline just a few of the techniques used to bring a character to life. In general makeup artists are responsable for facial hair on the actor. This can also include a hairline that might need to be changed to represent the character being portrayed. Also all  the different hair textures need to be considered while choosing products.Since there are so many different brands on the market ask around for advise if needed. For example if the actor is going to need clipper cuts. Questions to ask? What is his favorite products to use to maintain the right look? Your suggestions and knowledge (do your research if needed) will be much appreciated because after all you are the pro. Always have the right products for the right job. Remember your razors, clippers, shavers, after shave products, cleaners, hair products, brushes, pocket combs and treatment lines will be one of your most important tools. Including products for effects.The best trailer is a meeting of the minds and a group effort by the hair and makeup department together. 

A few  product suggestions from DH Hair Stylist Yvette Rivas:For basic mens grooming: Kiehls Silk Groom, Osmo Essence no shine clay wax, moussing wax by Graham Webb. Extra strong hold use KMS extra hold. pomade are best on styles like the parted slick look. Dry wax for messy.For Scalp conditions Scalp Recovery by Nioxin.  Tip: Extra hold gels work well to control cow licks. Apply the gel and blow dry! Fine hair textures need a little help. Mix a thickening mousse with a tad of thickening gel.

The New York Times had a few product suggestion in an article called Dig Out Those Pocket Combs. By David Colman

A. Davines Wonder Wax,

B. Aveda Liquid Pomade,

C. Bumble and Bumble Sumo Tech,

D.Malin+Goetz Sage Styling Cream

E. Kiehls Malleable Molding Paste

www.nytimes.com

www.grahamwebhairproducts.com

www.kiehls.com

www.osmonation.com

www.kmscalifornia.com

www.nioxin.com

www.davines.com

www.aveda.com

www.bumbleandbumble.com

www.malinandgoetz.com

Natrafil Brushes

Dupont has come out with brushes made with Natrafil filaments. The brushes were a collaboration between Julie Charriere, Head Instructor at Studio Tannaz, and Dupont, launching a line called The Indispensables.  For a look at Julie’s web site and beautiful makeup charts I might add go to: www.studiotannaz.ch/

As makeup artists having a variety of brushes will ensure using the right brush for the right makeup. These brushes follow the strict guidelines to be animal free in their production process. Which is always a concern with artists and actors alike. Easy cleaning , less absorption of product, and the ability to stay soft makes these brushes a must try for the makeup kit.

For more information go to:

Make-up artists Corner

www.natrafil.dupont.com

Information found at:

www.premiumbeautynews.com