Gretchen Davis

Pictures from Danny Wagner’s Tribute Book for Steve Johnson

Carols Daughter Hair Milk is best used for Curly Hair. But I’m sure anyone could use the products for lustre, shine and to control fly-a-way hair on set. Also I can’t resist products that have names like Hair Milk,Black Vanilla, and Almond Cookie. Check their products out at  www.carolsdaughter.com

I’ve been researching the best way to put together a combination of  makeup colors to use on set or individually for an actor. One of the interesting makeup lines that offered ways to do this is called Inglot. Inglot was created by Wojtek Inglot 25 years ago. Inglot cosmetics are produced within the european Union. You can customize a countless combination of colors plus they carry a line of false eyelashes, nail products, makeup cases, sponges, and brushes.  http://www.inglotcosmetics.com

 Examples of Inglot eyelashes     Example Inglot eyeshadows

Inglot eyeshadow rounds  Example of New Polymer Nail Polish

LAAC Skin Care

Anti-aging products are big bucks for large companies. Recently I read an article about a skin care line called LAAC. In this product you will find the proteins from Mussels. The protein is taken from the sticky substance from the foot of the mussel. The companies behind LAAC says this protein will be the next best thing for anti-aging treatment products. You can read more about this mussel cream in an article called Ingredients based on mussel proteins used in luxury cosmetics By Katie Bird.  

www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com

The New York Times had an article out about StriVectin -SD and skin care claims. The article is called Debating the Claims Behind Wrinkle Creams By Catherine Saint Louis. Do you remember when StrVectin started out as a stretch mark cream?Now the company has a product that contain a derivative of Vitamin B3. The article brought up the use of Vitamin B or Niacin in skin care products. What exactly is Niacin? Niacin is Vitamin B3. There have been reports by researchers that Vitamin B3 can help quicken  recovery from strokes.It is known to boost levels of good cholesterol. In skin care products Niacin is used as a moisturizer to restore a youthful appearance. Niacin can also be listed as Niacinamide, Nicotinamide or Nicotinc Acid. These cosmetic ingredients are deemed safe. But more studies need to be made before supporting Cosmetic Claims. There are many products on the market that contain vitamins. Here are a few products that have the highest concentration.  Read ingredients and directions for use.

Ponds  (found at Bi Rite, Walgreens etc).

StriVectin www.strivectin.com

 NIA 24 www.nia24.com

For more information on vitamin B3 go to:

www.nytimes.com

www.naturalhealthnbeauty.com

www.cosmeticinfo.org

 Beauty Blender Sponges: These sponges I resisted using for the longest time. But now my kit will always include Beauty Blenders. The rounded edges and pointed end is a perfect way to blend makeup products. They are expensive. Costs are minimized by washing them after use. Beauty Blenders comes with a cleansing soap.Their cleansing soap can also clean your other brushes and sponges. Buy a large bottle of the cleanser.Transfer to a smaller bottle if needed.  Also purchase the sponges in bulk. Avoid buying the little package deal of two sponges and a small cleansing soap unless you are trying the sponges for the first time. Do not use with alcohol products!  Your sponges will melt. www.beautyblender.net

Lint-On-The-Go-Sheets: Besides all of us using this product on ourselves! Sometimes going to work at 4:00AM you don’t realize that nice sweater has been a magnet for pet hair!Throw Lint-On-The-Go-Sheets in your kit. Wardrobe might need your help in a pinch. Scenes with dust,animals,or airborne pollen ( just to name a few) might transfer to your actor.  www.beautyhabit.com

Flip&Tumble Bags:These bags are really convenient and hold a lot of extra items you might need on a shoot. If you havent seen already cloth shopping bags are popping up on sets. Extra clothing, makeup , and effect products can be carried without a lot of difficulty. What I like about these is how you can store them by folding into a ball. Finding space in your set bag or in a trailer is valuable. Bags that fold or pack well is a huge plus!  www.flipandtumble.com

  Nails and hands a part of the total picture

Nail polishes can be used to convey a character you are asked to create. By character I mean any role an actor is portraying. That includes beauty makeup, photography makeup, effects and the theater. Often nails are over looked untill the hands go in front of the camera and then there is that mad dash to fix the nails. So lets say you have prepared ahead of time. There are extra emergency colors in your kit for those just in case moments.A director would like to add some polish or switch colors already on. You have an effects makeup which include the hands and nails. What choices do you have?

Most nail polishes contain nitrocellulose that is dissolved in Butyl Acetate which is deemed a hazardous waste by a few Public Waste facilities like Los Angeles, Milwaukee and Fairfax. What are the alternatives? Water-base nail polish. Although they are marketed as natural there is only so much green you can have with a nail polish. So always read your ingredients and choose the correct product for you. Here is a quick list of a few water-base nail polishes for references.

Acquarella Water Color, www.storeacquarellapolish.com  Natural nail products and removers.  

Crackle Water-based Nail Polish, www.trendincosmetics.com Water-base non-toxic over 100 colors. Nail polish that has a cracking effect when applied.

HoneyBee Gardens,  www.honeybeegardens.com  Odorless Water-base Product.

Suncoat Waterbased Nail Enamels, www.suncoatproducts.com Child friendly. Long lasting, quick drying water-base nail polish. Has fun colors.

 Sante Kosmetics Nail Polish Enamels, www.holisticbeauty.net water-base, environmentally safe nail polish.

Other web sites with information on water-base nail products:

www.caeran.com

www.bewellstaywell.com

www.ehow.com

www.safecosmetics.org Whats That Stuff?Nail Polish By Carmen Drahl  

Picture By Scott Bauer

Many Makeup and hairstylist travel around the world on photo shoots or films. We all tend to play down possible health hazards like disease carrying insects. Whenever you do travel abroad take all precautions. For example Ticks. One web site to check out is www.TBEfacts.com . This web site gives you detailed information about Tick-Borne Encephalitas. TBE is a viral disease caused by tick bites. The symptoms  can include problems with concentration, depression, and paralysis. Even death. If you are planning a shoot in areas where this disease is more prevalent be sure to get a FSME-IMMUN vaccination.  At risk areas are part of Japan, Europe, Siberia, and Central Asia.

www.businesswire.com

Palm Tree Oil Plantation

What is Palm Oil? Palm oil,is a vegetable oil, that comes from the fruit of the oil palm tree. Palm Oil today is used in a wide variety of cosmetics and food. There is concern about forests being cleared leaving the enviroment and endangered species at risk. Palm oil giant  SMART is dealing with environmentalists over the clearing of forests.The company wants to expand its plantations. Smart has rejected claims that conservation forests were being cleared. Companies like Nestle has stopped using SMART as a supplier. Others may follow in the near future. Loreal is the first cosmetic company to purchase sustainable oil. Body Shop which was taken over by Loreal uses organic certified Palm Oil from Columbia. Lush Cosmetics has decided to stop making soaps with Palm Oil and is now launching products Palm Oil Free.  

Lush Cosmetics        The Body Shop  

For more information go to:

 www.lushusa.com

www.thebodyshop.com

www.news.mongabay.com

Robert Mrazik on Wicked

 When Makeup and Hair Stylists are hired for a production there are a few steps to take before the job starts. Film and Theatre would have different concerns. Robert Mrazik who works often designing and working Touring Shows will explain how you should prepare and be ready to go for Theatre.   

Robert Mrazik Wigmaster

Robert is a multi-talented Hair Stylist for the entertainment industry.  Robert is often asked to Design the hair for special events like the SF Opera, Ballet, Wicked, 39 Steps, Young Frankenstein plus many other touring productions. Robert is Wig Master for Teatro ZinZanni in San Francisco. He started as a graduate and stylist from The Vidal Sassoon Salon& Academy.  Robert specialized in precision cuts, color extensions, and custom hair pieces which included stage and film. 

Robert:  When you are first hired ask questions that you have concerns about. For example what capacity is my position? What are my duties? Where are the wigs and hairpiece? Who do I report to? And where is the Hair Bible? Most of all take notes during the process and  have them on hand for a future date.

Scene from Wicked    

If I am designing for a show you will have added responsibilities. Most often you will have meetings with the costume designer. Those meetings usually take place about a month before fittings.  Any sketches, photos or research you can bring to the table is welcomed and very helpful.  Oh just a tip “It’s good to know what year you are in”! Storylines and time periods give instant inspiration. Those two things will help me decide where I want to go and where different time frames (time periods) collide.  Before the show starts you will be given tracks. Tracks are a specific set of duties choreographed into your day.  You will have actors to be responsible for on your track which would include preparing, meeting and making any changes.

Your tools:

Solvents, appliances, removers, hair pins, and products already decided for each character.

A properly blocked wig before rollers are removed   

Unblocked Wig ready to go

What is a typical day like?

1. Prep all your wigs and hairpiece. Set up for any special needs for the show. Make sure everything is unblocked.  Tip “Hair Tracks are usually separate from Makeup Tracks”.  Sometimes Tracks are combined on lower budget non union shows. 
2. Wait for the talent to arrive. Makeup most often goes on first.
3. Wigs go on. Make sure everything you put on is strong and secure. Especially if there are mics attached under the wigs. In Theatre facial hair is considered to be the wig department not makeup. In general be ready to do any type of hairstyle needed and on any live actor. Have all the right tools to do this.
4. The show begins.
5. Follow your notes and track.
6. Follow the quick changes which can be anywhere from 15 seconds to 15 minutes. You will be running around on Broadway Shows!
7. Show ends &wigs come off.  Wigs are always removed by the hair person. Actors tend to remove their own makeup unless prosthetics are involved.
8. Block the wigs up. Get ready for the next day.

 Robert Mrazik in the wig room.

Upkeep on the wigs after a show is essential! Every Wig is hand blocked with tape and sometimes rolled or re-pinned.  When a wig comes off an actor’s head it is usually warm and pliable. It is important to block the wig properly. If you don’t the Wig will lose its shape plus the lace will roll and fray.

San Francisco Opera House

Conclusion:

In my opinion Opera and Theatre makeup is the same thing. It all has to do with the transformation of the actor so he or she can connect with the audience.  How heavy makeup is applied or how dramatic a wig or costume might be is all determined by the size of the house, stage and lighting design.  In general stage makeup for Opera and Theatre is heaviest. Film and smaller stages makeup is applied on the lighter side. And for wigs you’ve achieved your goal if no one notices they are even being worn.