Gretchen Davis

Davines Total Hair Care

Davines has a total Hair care line that can also be used for the face and body. Their Davines Authentic Moisturising face, hair balm and body moisturizer is Safflower Oil based. All the products have ingredients like Sesame seed, Jojoba Oil, Shea Butter plus vitamins.Other products they carry like Davines Authentic Nourishing face, hair,body oil can be used among other things for hair with dry ends, or  protection with anti oxidising moisturizer for the face and body. I’m all for trying out products that can do several things.

Another product line Wizards( which makeup artists would use) is N0 12 Cement powder. This product is mixed into creams, gels, mousse or waxes to strengthen the holding power of existing products. What comes to mind is tacking down hair for Bald caps and anchoring or glueing small tubing in the hair for effects work. Wizards also has N0 11 Universal Instant Grip Glue.

 Check out their products at:

http://news.davines.com

Fig 2 left: untrained / Fig 2 Right: professional

Shigeki Nakauchi  is a researcher working in the Department of Computer Science at Toyohashi University. Nakauchi has developed technology that  shows how well a cosmetic foundation or cream is distributed on the skin. The every day person does not usually distribute cosmetics in an even and flattering way. Through a special filter in front of a camera lens  he can optically produce results from applying foundations and creams. Thus showing the inconsistency of applied makeup. Nakauchi is in collaboration with Kanebo Cosmetics.

 Kanebo Cosmetics

www.premiumbeautynews.com

http://www.tut.ac.jp/    

www.kanebo.com

Picture By Devon Keene

Halloween is a night of costumes, masks, and face paint for adults and children alike! We don’t always know what kind of paint we are applying directly to the skin. Makeup artists tend to know the best products on the market.The FDA puts out messages every year to help guide first timers in choosing the right Makeup. For example 1) if you have small children test any products you will use on the inside area of the childs arm. Watch for a few days to see if there are any reactions. 2)Throw out any old makeup that might be left over from the year before. 3) Be sure to cleanse the paint off the face or body when your Halloween event is over. You can always check the FDA web site to see if the pigments in the product you are using is FDA approved. 

 Example of Pro Contact Lenses By ProvisionCare 

A big no is wearing decorative contact lenses without a Dr’s checkup and prescription. It is Illegal to sell lenses this way without a Dr’s checkup.This is also a rule of thumb for Makeup Artists at work. Many times people call and ask about contact lenses that need to be used during a Television, Film, or Print job. In our book The Makeup Artist Handbook  Christina Patterson Ceret outlines the correct steps to ordering, applying, and maintaining contact lenses during a shoot. Never treat contact lenses as an afterthought. Something to be used without the proper Dr’s appointment and prescription. There are ways to use eyeliner pencils to enhance different looks to any eye like yellow, red, white, black or blues. Very effective. 

Some of my favorite makeup products to paint with are (I would have these products in my kit all the time):

Tattoo Inks: alcohol based. Do not use right under the eye. Great for appliances, and painting directly on the skin for any combination you can think of. Will not rub off. Examples of  Colors that work well:

Trauma  Corpse   Frozen

Temptu: Trauma, Corpse, Frozen and Burn. (Burn not shown)

 Character Palette, Full Color Matthew Mungle

Matthew Mungle: Character Palette, Full Color Palette

 FX Palette  Grunge  Mardi Gras 

Skin Illustrator: FX Palette,Grunge, Mardi Gras, (I also love to paint with the Glazing Gels)

 Example of a farmers tan using Illustrator Glazing Gels

Decals and temporary Tattoos: Wounds, Skin problems, Burns, and Tattoo’s.Everything you could think of to create different looks.

 Vampire Bites  Slashes  Prison Tattoo’s

Tinsley Transfers: Vampire Bites, Slashes, Prison Tattoo’s

There is also Rick Stratton whose work and Temp Tattoos are very real.

Creme Makeup: great for under the eyes or to add contour and highlights. Easy to blend and remove. These two Cream Makeups work well together to create any death, Ill, ghoulish or dying character.  Having these in your makeup kit is a plus.

Ben Nye Effects wheel with Death Purple

Ben Nye: Death Purple

Joe Blasco effects colors with Death Green

Joe Blasco: Death Green 

Water activated Makeup: Just what it says. I tend not to use water activated makeup. Only because the makeup can move or lift. But often used in theater, Fantasy Makeup, Body Makeup etc. 

For more information on products and how they are used go to:

www.ppi.cc    Skin Illustrator

www.matthewwmungle.com  W.M. Creations, Inc

www.temptupro.com  Temptu Products

www.tinsleytransfers.com  Tattoo Transfers

www.bennyemakeup.com  Ben Nye Makeup

www.joeblasco.com  Joe Blasco Products

www.provisioncare.com Christina Patterson Ceret Effects Lenses

www.fda.com    For  Color Pigment Charts and recalled products

Picture By Devon Keene

Interesting article called Teen Girls Body of Hormone-Altering Cosmetic Chemicals. Adolescent exposures to cosmetic chemicals of concern.By Rebecca Sutton ,Ph.,D.,Staff Scientist. www.ewg.org/reports/teens The cosmetics we use does affect children and teens research shows. Two parabens methylparaben and propylparaben was detected in teen girls that were tested. The problem that worries experts are how does this effect young woman when they are still developing. Particular worrisome is hormone disrupting chemicals.

Ingredients suggested to avoid:

DMDM Hydantoin: Toxic contaminants

Imidazolidinyl Urea: Toxic contaminants

Methylchloroisothiazolinone: Allergies, Nervous system

Methylisothiazolinone: Allergies Nervous System

Parabens: Hormone Effects

Sodium lauryl: Skin Damage

Laureth sulfate: Skin Damage

Triclosan: Thyroid Concerns

Triclocarbon: Thyroid Concerns

Triethanolamine: Allergies, and Toxic contaminants

Yes to  Carrots

Yes to Carrots is a hair and skin care product line centered around fruits,vegtables and a mix of minerals from the Dead Sea. They have Yes to Carrots, Yes to Tomatoes, Yes to Cucumbers, Yes to Blueberries, and now Yes to Baby Carrots.  A portion of the proceeds from sales of Yes products go to The Yes To Carrots Seed Fund. My favorites:

Lip Butters        Lip Tints       

Hydrate Cream

Vist their web site at  www.yestocarrots.com

Danny Wagner’s concept sculpt for J.A.K Films. George Lucas’s Art Department.

You never know what a project may bring in the way of creativity.  When Danny Wagner and crew were asked to build a huge sculpt for Mustafar in Star Wars Episode 3: Revenge of the Sith, they knew it would not be an easy task.  Danny was also asked to sculpt a concept sculpture for George Lucas’s art department , J.A.K. Films. The small sculpt was sculpted out of Y-2 clay. Sealed with a primer and painted with acrylics.

 Danny’s concept sculpt 

Mustafar was a huge carving sculpture,40 feet by 60 feet, that took 1 month to sculpt and carved out of urethane rigid foam.The sculpt had to be carved in a side way slant for lava flow. Different tools were used like loop tools, puddy knives, machetes, chain saws and adz tools. Even small fine sculpting tools were used for detail work. When the sculpt was done aqua resin was used to seal and prime the sculpt for painting. Acrylic paints were used for the painting process.

 Lava flows within the sculpt  

    Set is on a slant

 The set was on a slant so the lava which was made with Methocel could run down the trenches easier. Lava trenches were laid down with a clear sculptural vacuformed sections to let light show through. Using stage lights with gels enhanced the use of Methocel  giving the lava flow an eerie red glowing effect. 

  Lava flows

Pictures from Danny Wagner’s Tribute Book for Steve Johnson

  Nails and hands a part of the total picture

Nail polishes can be used to convey a character you are asked to create. By character I mean any role an actor is portraying. That includes beauty makeup, photography makeup, effects and the theater. Often nails are over looked untill the hands go in front of the camera and then there is that mad dash to fix the nails. So lets say you have prepared ahead of time. There are extra emergency colors in your kit for those just in case moments.A director would like to add some polish or switch colors already on. You have an effects makeup which include the hands and nails. What choices do you have?

Most nail polishes contain nitrocellulose that is dissolved in Butyl Acetate which is deemed a hazardous waste by a few Public Waste facilities like Los Angeles, Milwaukee and Fairfax. What are the alternatives? Water-base nail polish. Although they are marketed as natural there is only so much green you can have with a nail polish. So always read your ingredients and choose the correct product for you. Here is a quick list of a few water-base nail polishes for references.

Acquarella Water Color, www.storeacquarellapolish.com  Natural nail products and removers.  

Crackle Water-based Nail Polish, www.trendincosmetics.com Water-base non-toxic over 100 colors. Nail polish that has a cracking effect when applied.

HoneyBee Gardens,  www.honeybeegardens.com  Odorless Water-base Product.

Suncoat Waterbased Nail Enamels, www.suncoatproducts.com Child friendly. Long lasting, quick drying water-base nail polish. Has fun colors.

 Sante Kosmetics Nail Polish Enamels, www.holisticbeauty.net water-base, environmentally safe nail polish.

Other web sites with information on water-base nail products:

www.caeran.com

www.bewellstaywell.com

www.ehow.com

www.safecosmetics.org Whats That Stuff?Nail Polish By Carmen Drahl  

Palm Tree Oil Plantation

What is Palm Oil? Palm oil,is a vegetable oil, that comes from the fruit of the oil palm tree. Palm Oil today is used in a wide variety of cosmetics and food. There is concern about forests being cleared leaving the enviroment and endangered species at risk. Palm oil giant  SMART is dealing with environmentalists over the clearing of forests.The company wants to expand its plantations. Smart has rejected claims that conservation forests were being cleared. Companies like Nestle has stopped using SMART as a supplier. Others may follow in the near future. Loreal is the first cosmetic company to purchase sustainable oil. Body Shop which was taken over by Loreal uses organic certified Palm Oil from Columbia. Lush Cosmetics has decided to stop making soaps with Palm Oil and is now launching products Palm Oil Free.  

Lush Cosmetics        The Body Shop  

For more information go to:

 www.lushusa.com

www.thebodyshop.com

www.news.mongabay.com

Picture By bbradley

“Aromatherapy is… the skilled and controlled use of essential oils for physical and emotional health and well-being.”  Valerie Cooksley

Yesterday I read an article in the New York Times about Aromatherapy Bars, In Competition for Your Nose By Jennifer A Kingson. There are not that many Aromatherapy Bars and pretty expensive. When I worked in a Spa many years ago we did mix our own essential oils for treatments. Between giving facials and body work oils were a big part of why a client came back. In makeup some of us do have cosmetic and massage licenses.We can apply spa type treatments for actors in the makeup trailer. It really is up to you. However you choose to address treatment products for your actors remember not to experiment and to be aware of any adverse reactions. Essential oils and how they work is very complex in nature. Only practiced Aromatherapists  should work with certain essentials oils.  Essential oils can be used alone, diluted, together with another product or inhaled. For example you can dilute oils with Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Jojoba and avocado oils.  What are essential oils? They are concentrated plant extracts. Like grasses, leaves, peels of fruit, flowers, wood, and roots. Just to name a few. Essential oils should be kept away from children. Two commonly known companies that sell Essential Oils are StarWest and Aura Cacia. A few of the common Essential oils are listed here with descriptions that only pertain to  Spa type treatments. Always do your research and read detailed information on any oil you are going to use. Along with any suggested use or warnings.

 Aura Cacia   StarWest 

Common Essential Oils are:

Bergamot: Can be used to treat oily or acne prone skin types.

Cedar wood:Antibacterial, Antiseptic, Astringent, Diuretic, Stimulant,insect repellent. 

Cinnamon: energizing, invigorating, and refreshing.

Clary Sage: heals most skin irritations. Works well in facial masks.

Clove: Antiseptic, disinfectant for mouth and teeth. Used often in massage oils. 

Chamomile: A calming oil. Used to relax and soothe.

Eucalyptus: Antiseptic, antiviral, bactericidal, deodorant, expectorant, fungicidal, and insecticide.

Frankincense:  Anti-inflammatory, Sedative, Calming and detoxifies.

Grapefruit: Antibacterial, Antiseptic, Astringent, Detoxifier, Stimulant.

Geranium: Helps to balance the skin.

Lavender: Balancing, relaxing, uplifting, skin care, and treatment for burns.

Lemon grass: Lemon grass is uplifting and often used in Massage, bath, or lotions.

Lemon: Helpful to treat wounds, infections, and uplifting.

Peppermint: treat aches and pains, digestion, indigestion, headaches and skin treatments. Sensitive skin.

Rosewood: Astringent in nature. Can be used as a deodorant, insecticide, and stimulant.  Can also be used for jet lag.

Rosemary: Stimulating product. Up lifting. Good for muscle aches and tension.

Spearmint: Less strong than peppermint. Good to use for children.

Sage: Relaxing oil . Used often in massage products. Helps with aches and pains. Soothing.

Sandalwood: Aids many skin ailments, stress reducer; uplifting.

Tea Tree: Healing oil. Good for any kind of anti-fungal treatment.

 Vetiver: Great for the skin. It is used to reduce wrinkles and stretch marks.Moisturizes the skin and helps to heal wounds.

Patchouli: Anti-inflammatory; cell regenerator. Alleviates depression and anxiety.Used most often in perfume, incense, massage, bath, and diffuser.

To name just a few.

 Picture by California Gormet

Essential Oils to stay away from:

Almond Bitter: Bitter almond oil contains prussic acid, known as cyanide, and is a well-known poison

Mugwort: Contains thujone which is poisonous.

mustard: As an essential oil, mustard oil is toxic because of its high content of allyl isothiocyanate. The oil is a skin and mucus membrane irritant

Pennyroyal oil is a toxin.( pulegone content) if ingested pennyroyal oil can cause death.

Sassafras: Extremely toxic and a carcinogenic.

Wormwood: Known also as Artemisia absinthium. Contains neurotoxins that can bring on seizures.

Just to name a few. For more information about Essential Oils go to:

www.essentialoils.co.za

www.scentsiblearoma.com

 www.naha.org 

 www.answers.com w/Paula Ford Martin 

 http://www.starwest-botanicals.com

www.auracacia.com